How To Make A Qipao? qipao is mainly highlights the beauty of women’s lines, so cutting is the most critical step in making a cheongsam.

This requires a very high level of tailoring, and it must be tailored to fit the body. It is said that one point increases fat, and one point loses weight.

Let’s enter the cutting process of traditional cheongsam together.

Tailoring process of a traditional qipao

Set qipao the style type

Since many cheongsam fabrics are made of real silk fabric, and the shrinkage rate of real silk is high, the fabric must be pre-shrinked before cutting, otherwise, the finished cheongsam will shrink and shrink in size after washing, and the shape will change greatly, and sometimes it cannot be worn use.

Therefore, water jet shrinkage and warp and weft yarn shaping are directly related to the stability of the cheongsam, the clothing effect, and the wearing comfort.

how-to-make-qipao
How To Make A Qipao
how-to-make-qipao
How To Make A Qipao

After the silk fabric is put in the water, the surface gloss of the fabric will become gray, and a layer of hoarfrost will affect the beauty of the silk.

Therefore, the traditional pre-shrinking method is: spray even water on the opposite side of the lining to make the water on the opposite side of the fabric even It becomes darker without water spots on the fabric.

While spraying water, roll the fabric into a roll. Leave it for about 15 minutes to fully absorb water and shrink the fabric.

Then use an iron to evenly iron the fabric on the reverse side of the fabric to make the fabric dry completely and roll up the fabric while ironing it to prevent the fabric from wrinkling. Surface lining and edge material are treated in the same way.

Trim qipao

trim-qipao
How To Make A Qipao
trim-qipao
How To Make A Qipao
trim-qipao
How To Make A Qipao
trim-qipao
How To Make A Qipao
trim-qipao
How To Make A Qipao
trim-qipao
How To Make A Qipao

Squeegee treatment

  • According to a quarter of the finished product, size measured my hips, add a seam allowance of 2cm (100×1/4=25+2cm)=27cm, measure the line according to the fabric from the edge to the center area, and find the straight yarn according to the line Iron out the midline mark. If the shoulder width exceeds the width of the hip, press the half-shoulder length to produce the midline mark. The same goes for the lining.
  • Straighten the pink thread, and fix the two ends with a needle into a straight line with the length of the cheongsam plus 10 cm.
  • According to the length of the pink thread, from the bottom hem of the left fabric to the upper part of the pink thread 0.2 cm away from the pink thread, fix a stitch every 10 cm until the length of the back of the cheongsam.
  • Then mark the waist and hip line of the back piece and the length of the cheongsam. Three centimeters of the hem is released from the hem.
  • Carry out the back waist treatment at the back waist section. And calculate the amount of back waist province to return. Then fix it with a needle, and then use the iron for ironing and smoothing.
  • Fold in half from the shoulder line of the back piece, and press the other position of the back piece from the top to overlap. Pin the front and back pieces together until the chest is high with a needle to fix one side, and then fold the chest position to save a chest size (the front and back lengths appear to be different), and move the back piece to the bottom position.
  • Mark the position of the front piece according to the position of the back piece. A good front film needs to deal with the amount and waist saving of the front film.
  • After saving the position, make the front and back pieces consistent, and return to ironing and smoothing.
  • Determine the chest height, waist position, hip position, and lower position from the shoulder line down.
  • Determine the sleeve length, sleeve depth, bust width, waist width, and hem width.
  • Then take off the pink line and draw the side seam of the cheongsam with the pink line. The line should be smooth.
  • Draw collar position and front big breast position.
  • Cut the cut cheongsam, leave 2cm for the side seam, leave the bottom for the seam, cut the placket according to the drawn placket line, cut the waist, hip, hem, etc.

Perform traditional squeegee treatment around the cut garment pieces (the width of the dusting is about 0.5cm)

Squeegee-treatment-qipao
How To Make A Qipao
Squeegee-treatment-qipao
How To Make A Qipao
Squeegee-treatment-qipao
How To Make A Qipao

This traditional squeegee treatment makes it difficult for the fabric to lose silk, because the silk fabric is very soft, and the surrounding pulp makes the cut piece a fixed shape so that it is handy in the sewing process.

Especially along the edges, This traditional craft is one of the very important links in the production of cheongsam.

This craft is now lost. This craft has been passed on through generations of masters and apprentices. It can be passed on, and it demonstrates the ingenuity of our Chinese nation.

Sewing qipao

The technological characteristics of ancient cheongsam: it is fine hand-made, suitable for all kinds of embroidery, inlay, inlay, rolling, and other crafts; the technological characteristic of modern cheongsam: simple and fit line structure instead of fine hand-made.

sewing-qipao
  1. Sew the bottom flap and the large flap, cut 0.5 cm to make the seam, tighten the stitches when stitching, and stitch the inner piece in the same way. The back seam on the side faces the shoulder seam, and the back seam on the inner side is flattened.
  2. Sew the bottom flap and the large flap, cut 0.5 cm to make the seam, tighten the stitches when stitching, and stitch the inner piece in the same way. The back seam on the side faces the shoulder seam, and the back seam on the inner side is flattened.
  3. After the stitching is completed, rub the bonding area with your hands to soften it, and then use scissors to make a tooth-like cut, hit the water line to the side seam, and iron the inside. The hips are hot. Use a hand-needle cotton thread to fix four pieces of cotton at the side seam line position, and tighten them slightly at the hip. Hand stitching.

qipao display

Precautions for cutting cheongsam

Cutting is the most critical part of the whole process of making clothes. It can also be said that it is the basis and prerequisite for whether clothing can be done well. Therefore, the pieces of each part must be cut accurately when cutting. In addition to accurate dimensions, the cutting method must also be appropriate, and the following points must be noted:

  1. Check the size and style before cutting, pay attention to whether there is a record of body shape characteristics and other requirements.
  2. Check the clothing for oil, water stains, skipped yarn, uneven color, etc., and try to avoid it when cutting.
  3. General clothing materials have positive and negative differences, so you should distinguish them carefully. When cutting, the paint powder should be painted on the reverse side of the cloth, and light-colored paint powder should be used.
  4. Some clothing materials, such as cashmere, corduroy, and other raw materials have the characteristics of smooth and inverted wool. The up and down directions must be arranged in line when cutting, and cannot be reversed, otherwise, there will be problems with different shades of light. For fabrics with patterns, pay attention to the difference between patterns in reverse order. Check the fabric, pay attention to the grid is relative, symmetrical.
  5. When cutting, the main part should be cut first, and the second part should be cut later. Cut the front and back pieces in order, then cut the large sleeves, small sleeves, and collar, and finally cut the parts. However, the parts must be taken care of when cutting, lest the material is not enough.
  6. When cutting, draw the line must be horizontal and vertical, pay attention to the direction of the warp and weft (vertical and horizontal) of the clothing material, and do not use it longitudinally, horizontally, or obliquely. Generally, the warp yarn (longitudinal yarn) is used as the length of the clothing material and the weft yarn is used for the collar.

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